.
He is adamant that despite a loss of biodiversity over the period of colonisation all the primary ingredients that the ancestors of Māori used have endured and the practical cultural heritage is still strong.
“The thought was that our food culture was stolen, destroyed, it wasn’t, it was buried deep amongst those who could pick it up and carry it on for the next [generation,] that’s where I come in and my like-minded chefs, we have the same, similar background, but there’s not many of us left. That’s why the work and role that I play is a very important part of that recovery process.”
Chef Kealoha Domingo examines a native plant at Velskov native forest farm.
RNZ/Nick Monro
McLeod said he is perfectly happy to throw people in the deep end in order to teach them, whether that is through foraging, hunting or making the tools needed to cook, like kete , raurau (baskets) or using the umu or ground oven.
The more people he connects with, whether that is Māori chefs or just chefs interested in Māori cuisine, the better the chances of reviving kai Māori , he said.
Hawaiian Chef Kealoha Domingo was one of several international indigenous chefs who traveled to Aotearoa in November for the World Indigenous Peoples’ Conference on Education, where they collaborated with Māori chefs on an exclusive dinner.
Members of the Indigenous Chef’s Collective foraging for kai Māori at Velskov native forest farm.
RNZ/Nick Monro
Maori chefs hope to reconnect people with traditional kai Morning Report
Domingo has been following a similar kaupapa as McLeod in Hawai’i of reconnecting indigenous people to their food traditions.
“It’s not something that I designed, went out and sought after, but I feel fortunate to have fallen into that role and try my best to hold up to the responsibility. And I understand the importance of it,” he said.
“It’s motivating me to continue the work and to connect with other people who are doing the same.”
One place helping people reconnect with kai Māori is Velskov forest farm in the Waitākere Ranges, which across 10 acres cultivates a variety of edible native plants and offers experiences for tourists as well as catering for business retreats in the “bush boardroom”.
Velskov partner Ramona Radford.
RNZ/Nick Monro
Velskov partner Ramona Radford (Ngāi Tai, Te Whakatōhea, Ngāti Porou, Tūhoe ) said the produce from native forests isn’t well understood, so one of the farms goals is to make it more accessible.
“So what we do here at Velskov is we combine regenerative farm produce with tours and experiences, as well as education for the people that come to the farm. We tell them the story of this place and the traditions and the whakapapa , some of the knowledge about the native plants and produce that come off the whenua .”
Traditional Māori ingredients can be difficult to source because it is not a well understood source of produce, she said.
“It’s not so much that there are regulations or permits required because councils and the government aren’t even aware of, or even seeing this as a current option. Our intention with what we’re doing here is to establish a framework, a set of standards and guidelines for working with native bush produce.”
Radford said sourcing kai under a culturally endorsed set of guidelines will help protect native plants from being over harvested.
“The reason why we are providing a framework and a set of guidelines is because there is a fear, a lot of fear from our people that the bush will be exploited, that it will be over harvested.”
Radford is hoping to ensure the protection of not only the ngāhere , the native forest, but also the cultural knowledge that sits behind kai Māori , she said.
“This is a Māori customary right to be able to forage in your ngāhere. And so as we’re passing on the knowledge of the plants and the food and inviting people to this place, we’re educating them around how important it is to apply principles to the way that we that these forests are managed.”
Chef Kārena Bird
RNZ/Nick Monro
Kārena Bird said it was a highlight to connect with other indigenous chefs at Velskov, although the Maketu based chef admits that foraging in the rainy forest is not really her deal as a “coastal gal”.
“Obviously, when you go into the forest, there’s just something about it that really calms the spirit. And being able to forage and eat food [at Velskov] is really special because a lot of the places around Aotearoa are reserves and you can’t really get things from there. So it’s really cool to see such a thriving ngāhere .”
A Tarata or Lemonwood leaf.
RNZ/Nick Monro
Bird (Ngāpuhi, Ngāti Manawa, Ngāti Whakaue ) said as a chef when it comes to kai Māori ingredients it is important to make sure you have traceability.
“To source ingredients like kai Māori ingredients, we either get it ourselves, or we have to go through really trusted providers, because obviously anybody can go out and get herbs and things. But we’d like to know that it’s from an indigenous supplier or from somebody who has the same whakaaro .”
Velskov native forest farm.
RNZ/Nick Monro
Bird said Velskov provides a great space to learn more about edible native plants and it’s nice for people to know that “there is more than just mānuka ” out there in our forests.
“When you get into kai , it’s just natural for you to want to learn more. And when you are in the world of food, you’ll never know everything. So I think there have been some generations that have been separated from our taiao . And I think the reconnection of us to nature is cultural reclamation.”
Chef Kealoha Domingo prepares kina.
RNZ/Nick Monro
Maori chefs hope to reconnect people with traditional kai Morning Report
